Anglophilification: a hodgepodge review of English fashion.
Inspired by my recent trip to London: on the Elizabethan era's influence on modern style, the Brits' fave hue of fire engine red, & packing one great wool trench coat.
Above: Cate Blanchett in Elizabeth (1998), Princess Diana
First off, I have to apologize for not forewarning my readers that I had to skip last week’s newsletter due to my vacation to London. But I’m hopeful you’ll forgive me as this week I’m reviewing a triple threat of English fashion, with highlights from my trip—just in time, too, with The Crown season six premiering this week. While near impossible to narrow down, the three focal points I’m covering on London are as follows: Elizabethan era fashion & its modern-day impact, the British obsession with what I’m dubbing fire engine red & how wearable this particular color is, and the necessity of packing one wool trench coat, especially in winter to a city with a rich history in tailoring.
Part 1: Elizabethan Era: farthingales & those damn ruffle collars
The English monarchy has always drawn (or stolen) from other countries’ fashions and Elizabeth I’s rule (1558-1603 CE) was no exception. But Elizabeth’s particular inclination toward fashion played a huge role in shifting her court and nobles toward a more flamboyant, opulent way of dressing. While there was an abundance of elements to an Elizabethan “full look”, I’m honing in on the farthingale (a hoop skirt, panniers or a crinoline, depending on location, desired shape, and the era in which it appears) and those insane ruffle collars (ruffs). But I have to share this outfit breakdown by Drea Leed (her adorable illustrations are above) of one of the options for a full Elizabethan look (only missing the ruff).
The farthingale took influence from both Spanish and French styles and changed shape across fashion eras. The most typical of this era was called the Spanish farthingale. At one point during Queen Elizabeth’s rule, the drum farthingale made its dramatic entrance and was only allowed to be worn by the Queen, her family and high nobility in the 16th century. There were actual laws put in place which punished peasants who tried to create and wear garments that too similarly emulated the styles of the wealthy. Truly medieval terror!
Just like its relative the hoop skirt, a farthingale is a structured underskirt made with boning—literal whale bone, historically, like unto corsets. Depending on the boning placement and length of the skirt, a conical or circular skirt is created once the overskirts are draped over top. Elizabethan drum farthingales were the most extremely circular. I love seeing how this dramatic skirt shape appears throughout fashion history, with Loewe Spring 2020 pale yellow lace dress being top of mind. And of course, Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton’s (who’s since left the house) infamous beehive collection featured crinolines heavily, on theme as ever for McQueen’s original work. Also, in my opinion, Harris Reed has carved a name for himself in large part by creating his own variations of this couture garment.
Above from left: Paloma Elsesser in custom Dilara Findikoglu; Loewe Spring 2020; Dua Lipa wearing vintage Chanel; Harris Reed A/W 22, Alexander McQueen Spring 2013
While it may not seem plausible for your everyday style to rock a crinoline (I say go for it), there are other lovely versions that merely reference this shape, making them more wearable. Like corsets, crinolines or anything with these intricate materials like boning that require hand sewing and multiple layers/elements are extremely expensive. The labor, time required, and materials + fabric costs alone are immense, so bear this in mind if you plan to purchase. A contemporary take on any farthingale is an investment in what I consider to be a wearable work of art.
Secondly are the ruffle collars; I saw countless of these shown in sculpture while in London, most likely because often, heartbreakingly, cloth doesn’t survive centuries. In Elizabeth I’s day, they were called ruffs and were attached to a bib-like garment. Nowadays the closest resembler is likely the “Pierrot Collar” AKA a clown collar, so use either of these terms in your online shopping search, if you want to take home your own Elizabethan-vibe collar piece.
I got a kick out of the fact that, by happenstance, I packed my own Marc Jacobs top with a ruffle collar and thus was on theme with London’s historical surroundings. Medieval ruffs were made from flax linen fabric that was starched within an inch of its life. Just like with hoop skirts, I love to see modern iterations of a ruffle neck. The ruffle’s shape within clothing today is mostly dependent on the interlayer used, called interfacing or fusible. Interfacings come in all kinds of stiffnesses and structures—it’s the designer’s choice.
My recommendation for a ruffle neck if you’re a fellow sensitive skin baddie: go for a silk or cotton if you don’t want be to itching your neck :( for those to whom this does not apply, please have fun with some tulle.
Part 2: Great Britain loves fire engine red
Above: Amy Winhouse; Princess Diana; Jodie Turner-Smith in Gucci x Adidas; Emma Corrin
OK seriously, England, you have an addiction to the perfect red. Buses, jackets, (helloooo THOSE redcoats), accent colors in stained glass, tile, paint, you name it…the list goes on. And while I did not bring a single red garment with me which is unusual for me, I experienced another happenstance matching-motif packing moment by having brought along my FIRE ENGINE red tights. It’s funny that Vogue is discussing them as being *on trend* again because I’m in the camp that red tights always have a place, it’s just—say it with me: “all in the styling.”
Whether it’s Amy Winehouse’s red/black bustier dress (is it time to attempt to wear red and black together again? I don’t know if I’ve recovered from the 2010s yet) or Emma Corrin’s godet flared pants, Brits fkn love this color. When it comes to sporting this particular shade, Princess Diana walked so modern-day Londoners could run. Moral of the story here is I love it and I recommend fire engine red clothing.
Part 3: (Bring) one coat to rule them all
Above: She wore it here, she wore it there, she wore it everywhere…with assorted clothes but shout out to my made in Ireland cable knit cardigan, as always my trusty made in NYC Villeine LeRoy Overalls, my thrifted made in Italy ski fleece, & my Villeine merino knit hood, knitted by Sue in upstate NY which I HAD to wear at the Tower of London!
[So I did bring a rain jacket in addition of course] but I have to confess I’m a little disappointed in the assortment of clothing I brought with me—I do not recommend day drinking at your friend’s birthday party and procrastinating packing until the last possible moment. But it’s tough to bring the right stuff for a week-long, carry-on only, winter getaway; coats, boots and sweaters overwhelm your suitcase straight out the gate. I did however get extensive use out of my vintage Woolrich 100% wool grey trench coat.
I only walked past Savile Row so as to not be tempted into creating the desire for my own bespoke tailored suit, but of course Britain’s history of tailoring is colossal. And yes my coat is nowhere near a custom suit level piece but with its lapels, notch collar, beautiful wool fabric and contrast acetate satin lining, it cuts a quality and enduring shape. And it was made back in the days when Woolrich manufactured here in the USA (sigh…)
Commitment to a long wool trench coat is big—it’s an expensive piece you’ll hopefully have for a lifetime. So I don’t take giving advice on this particular outerwear lightly. But some essential features for the perfect wool coat I recommend:
100% wool fabric; cashmere works too (or as close as you can get)
Make sure the lining isn’t cheap fabric; if you’re just looking online it can be hard to tell, but usually an acetate content is a good option. If unlined style, keep in mind it won’t be as warm and look for clean finished interior seams.
Know your desired silhouette—if you’re hoping for a fit & flare, don’t settle for a masculine car coat or shapeless style; make sure it’s slightly nipped waist and/or belted
If this is a coat you’ll likely be layering over chunky sweaters, go for a raglan sleeve—they are roomier/a more relaxed fit through the sleeve & armhole
Double breasted w/ buttons. While there’s a time and a place for a robe coat, a forever-style is a button-front trench. And single-breasted doesn’t create the same dramatic notched collar, A-line shape, or even warmth
Choose a neutral color or black. It’s all fun and games to have a statement coat but this is one you’ll want to wear with any and everything, forever.
The longer, the better! It really does keep you warmer to have your legs coat-covered, and I just think there’s no greater fashion statement than a long coat blowing in the wind
Shopping links belowww…
Second hand NWT Rosie Assoulin Flying Buttresses full skirt sz 6 $1,200
Antique 1880s true Edwardian crinoline needs repairs but so cool! $250
Second hand Marc Jacobs silver metallized fiber lace ruffle blouse sz 6 $381
Second hand Marc Jacobs cotton plaid ruffle neck top same as mine but in plaid sz XS $81
In conclusion, I love London & cheerio! xHannah
Oh my goodness London was good to you and unloosed your pent up (because two weeks went by) sartorial editorializing to a fire engine red (my favorite color since my earliest childhood memories) frequency!! Thanks for another great column.