Don't disregard the '80s.
Some good stuff came from the 1980s--including me! How to wear garments from the decade deemed the whackiest, in a non-whacky way.
The ‘80s ate, ok!
Calling something “80s” has, more often than not, been meant as an insult—and it makes sense (if you haven’t considered 1980s design more deeply, of course)! because this decade known for all things LOUD makes for an easy target. You’ve got big hair, pastels AND jewel tones, maximalism; really the works when it comes to excess. Paul McCartney’s “Press” music video is one that captures prime 1980s energy; and it’s looked back on with embarrassment, i.e. the Londonist called the video “cringey” (a word I find to be overused in instances where someone is merely putting oneself out there)…also, the video only reinforces that the ‘80s are charming, in my opinion, and has there ever been a better pair of linen pleated pants?
But it is for these very reasons that we are quick to criticize (or at least only view the aesthetic as ridiculous) the ‘80s that I find the designs of this era so enticing. There is a sincerity and vulnerability to an age that was all about dancing, extravagant exercise, public spaces, expression, and really, a celebration of the human spirit if you wanna go wide with it (which I do).
All design is interconnected so I find great inspiration from interiors, and for the best ‘80s homes imagery, I peruse the Instagram account the_80s_interior. “We love to hate the 80s but many interior design devotees will profess the 80s were in fact the last decade of true creativity and originality in decor…” (the account quoted this from cultural creative writer Heidi Pyper). The shift in thought toward the 1980s isn’t limited to interiors; check out this article in The Financial Times on 1980s art and furniture going from “scorned to adorned”. And we’ve seen the mullet hairstyle solidify its place in fashion time and again.
The opinion that the ‘80s were the last original decade for design has stuck with me since I read the above quote years ago—could it be true? I believe it just might be. A pre-internet (for the general public) age allowed the ‘80s to experiment without bounds, dictate widespread trends, and not be obliged to the “come-down” natural progression era (the ‘90s) that so often follows a maximalist cycle (back to Classical Architecture after Gothic, anyone)?? And while minimalism is an essential aesthetic, I believe maximalism deserves its own place alongside it for being “highly regarded” as innovative design.
Some of the best, most creative and femme-powered design came out of the 1980s. Has anyone else seen Love Lies Bleeding yet? (set in 1989—the year of my birth—OK so I’m on the very tail-end of being an ‘80s baby, but still). I was struck by the realization that this decade was the first ever that explored female muscle-building! Fun. Anyway I could go on and on with TV, music, and film references for costume design from and based in the 1980s. But for today I’ll focus on some key takeaways for garments & design details I love from this era, why they’re great, what to look for in regard to quality, a bit on their origins, and how to make them “work” in styling for today.
Stirred up about stirrups.
Don’t be mad, Mom! This is my first ever stirrups endeavor. I only remember my mom wearing super stretchy knit stirrup leggings in bright colors; this was for a short period of time after which no kind of stirrup pants were ever to be seen again…While the 1980s doesn’t own the origin story to stirrups, since they were in fact an equestrian functional design detail dating back to the 1920s, the ‘80s really made stirrups BIG. Stirrup leggings were introduced and all kinds of pants with stretch were seen to include the under-the-foot-strap detail.
Since these are my first stirrup pants of any kind, I’m learning what I like about them in real time—but I enjoy that stirrup pants are elongating visually, and there’s a playfulness to them. I also like that they basically require pumps (to look their best) which—not that they ever left for me—I am excited to see pumps are so back, case and point: Kristen Stewart for her Love Lies Bleeding press tour. Anyhow for a modern styling, instead of the literal bright-colored stirrup leggings from ‘80s, maybe try out a trouser with a stirrup detail. Look for some stretch in the fabric content of the pant, even if it’s woven, i.e. elastane or spandex. And stick to elevated basics like a simple knit, plain button-down, and pointed toe pump.
Bejeweled in jewel tones.
OK so I have a lot of green clothing which I realized when I was deciding what to wear on St. Patrick’s Day lol. I’m getting more acquainted with jewel tones after a stint away from them during my college years—and I’m dabbling in purple again, starting with footwear. I couldn’t help but notice Rihanna making the case for the perfect purple recently (btw how do we feel about color-matching your shoes/sneakers to your outerwear with such a specific color?? I’m torn but I feel like we’ll be seeing more of this soon bc Rihanna). The' ‘80s went hardcore on jewel tones, with wearable cubism in the form of color blocking, often with black trim. Like all color trends, jewel tones are cyclical and given their loudness, people have strong opinions on these stone-derived colors. I find that emerald green is very sassy + it’s cold in hue, so it’s best worn back with black and maybe an accent in white to chill it out. My vintage Pendleton blazer with velvet notched collar and contrast black velvet buttons was an instant draw for me because it reminded me of Marc Jacobs Fall 2018 collection. I just think that season was one of Marc’s best; it was true to himself and his clear 1980s inspiration—plus it’s heaven for color blocking jewel tones. Reference this collection for fun jewel tone pairings to try out.
Menswear→womenswear crossover.
Another unique 1980s clothing development that—although in existence previously—this time around was met with widespread adoption, was masculine suiting for women (and still men). Strong shoulders via shoulder pads, no nipped waists on jackets, and pleated pant fronts were standard. For both men and women, there was a boxy, drapey look to suits, with my personal favorite iteration of this suit style being of linen.
You really see clothing influencing the opposite gender in countless cases (reminds me of how somedays I want to dress like a sk8er boy in work pants) and maybe another time we’ll get into more amazing androgynous ‘80s apparel. But for today I’m highlighting the boxy linen suit because I think it is one of the most timeless gender fluid styles from the ‘80s. Who doesn’t want their own Armani linen suit from back in the day? Something to keep an eye out for linen suiting/separates is, like always, fiber content. Linen is *technically* a weave, not a fiber which is so confusing because it’s been used so often to indicate both fiber and weave that hardly anyone knows the difference anymore. That’s where I come in to tell you flax (fiber) is technically what most linen (weaves) are made from. You may also encounter cotton/flax blends, or hemp fabricated into linen; flax fiber content will always be the most structured and wrinkly which we love to see. Go for pleated bottoms, partially lined blazer and shoulder pads if you feel so inclined. Although a rounded, dropped shoulder makes for a much more casual look if that’s what you’re after.
Put the yeehaw in 1980s-inspired denim.
Denim, specifically the southwest/western styling adaptation, is an ‘80s highlight essential. Western-vibe jeans remain the most prevalent aesthetic since their inception. With designer denim rising in popularity during the ‘80s, jeans became no longer solely casual; and jeans were incorporated into everyday-wear. Thus the experimental denim options became near limitless, and there was denim in all treatments and embellishments: acid washed, pigment dyed, studded, fringed, and jeans made with trouser elements. While I think there is considerable inspiration to be found in many of the jeans from the ‘80s, the western styling direction is my classic go-to.
Whether it’s adding a bolo tie, doubling up on denim for a Canadian Tuxedo, or belting your jeans and adding some cowboy/western boots, you just can’t go wrong with the ‘80s western-oriented denim. And for those style nerds like me, keeping a watchful eye on Bella Hadid’s outfits’ evolution, you may have noticed a country western 1980s influence with her recent looks, given her new cowboy boyfriend and pursuit of horseback riding. And I have to say: I’m loving it—bring on the silver jewelry, black leather, and high-waisted, belted, BOOT CUT jeans! With some of these looks, we’re jutting up on 1990/91, but the repurcussions of ‘80s extravagance are still there.
Shopping links—
Vintage Pendleton wool velvet trimmed green blazer same as mine diff size sz L $37.50
Vintage 1980s Christian Dior oatmeal linen double breasted blazer sz 8 $895
This is only a handful of some of the best ‘80s designs, of course, but it’s a start (and it’s based on what I’ve got in my closet). I think the late 1980s, specifically Berlin-punk, leather-heavy (à la Atomic Blonde setting), plus the gym style like unto Love Lies Bleeding deserves its own post because the array of clothing within these aesthetics—even from just the year 1989 :)—are embedded in more subliminal ways to our wardrobes today.
Looking back on a decade with so much to offer means of course there was a lot of ridiculousness and kitsch because that’s what comes with such extremes in innovation and fearlessness. And I think we can use a little more of that courage (with the acceptance that maybe some approaches won’t be well-received forever) when we get dressed today. The ‘80s certainly taught us it’s better to have tried and failed than to have never tried at all. xHannah
I rocked the largest shoulders pads EVER in my jewel toned cobalt blue satin dress that I wore at my 10 year high school reunion. Big hair was a must too! Thanks for eliciting the happy memories for me this week.