For the love of sports (clothing).

On historical sporting apparel worn for the everyday, from someone who does not know sports.

Dec 01, 2023

Above from left top down: Sanaa Lathan in Love & Basketball (2000), Sylvester Stallone in Rocky (1976), Tom Hanks and Gina Davis in A League of their Own (1995, set in 1943), Joshua Jackson in The Mighty Ducks (1992), cast of Remember the Titans, most notably Denzel Washington (2000, set in 1971)

Why has sporting apparel throughout American history been so good? As essentially a non-sports fan, it’s funny to notice how many ties modern day clothing has to clothing worn to play sports. When you start naming the individual garments that have made the jump to “regular”-wear, the list is overwhelming: coach jackets, rugby shirts, jerseys of any sport, tennis skirts, joggers, track suits, boxing shorts, baseball t-shirts, (there’s that time-honored raglan tee)—and that’s only to name a handful. Sporting apparel has been so influential on clothing at large that the term “sportswear” in the fashion industry is now common speak for casual wear, or really, just a collection that isn’t haute couture.

Personally I’m much more interested in antique athletic wear than that of the high-performance, synthetic, leggings-centric, athleisure stuff we see today. It’s just so endearing to imagine generations before us exercising in woven garments or fully fashioned knitwear. And beyond that, it’s fascinating to examine how and when the lines between what we exercised in and what we wore daily began to blur. And while sports are certainly of cultural significance around the world, there does seem to be a deeply entrenched Americana idealism surrounding sports like basketball and baseball; entry into (or even just casual participation) these sports was available to athletes regardless of their money or societal status…Is there anything more American Dream than that?

So basically this week I want to share advice on how to wear and what to look for with (historical vibes) sports apparel in an absolutely non-sports way. Because the list of individual sports-related garments is monumental, let’s focus on the wintery sporty pieces I own, and a few I wish I did. Keep in mind I don’t have any TEAMS affiliations / loyalty so please don’t be offended if you do!

RUGBY SHIRTS

If you pay attention to runway shows you may have noticed rugby shirts are reappearing, notably at Stella McCartney as part of the no-pants trend, immediately copped by multiple celebs. My personal favorite rugby fashion cameo has to be the 2017 bodega shoot for Paper mag with Rihanna in a Marc Jacobs striped rugby number—I am so mad at myself for not snatching this one up on eBay when I saw it…

Above from left: Mick Jagger, 1965; SJP as Carrie Bradshaw in Sex & the City, 2002; Stella McCartney runway A/W 23, Rihanna for Paper magazine, 2017

Per usual, it dampens my spirit how little clothing is manufactured in the USA anymore…1-800 Vintage’s recent post researched the percentage of USA-made clothing and found it’s at a depressing 2-3%. I’ve scoured the internet for made in USA rugby shirts and came up virtually empty—except for a new site I found called “J.Press”! But as always, I’ve also linked some great second hand + vintage options and a few styles made in Europe.

Sportiest outfit to date: I’m wearing thrifted Cabela’s cotton rugby shirt w/ second hand corduroy Theory pleated skirt, wool leg warmers & MARSÈLL clogs

There are bountiful great rugby shirts but you need to decide if you want to go the fully fashioned sweater route or the cut-and-sew route in a jersey or double knit fabric. Might I suggest both are necessary for a complete wardrobe?

If you’re looking for a cotton cut-and-sew version, make sure the fabric is weighty—nothing worse than a flimsy jersey knit in a ghastly imitation of a rugby top. Keep in mind the collar and button placket for a cut-and-sew rugby shirt are nearly always of a woven fabric which is what gives them such a structured look around the neck; and it’s usually in that typical contrast starch white. I say go for 100% cotton as it makes for the best handfeel in a heavy jersey fabric. Rugby shirts can be differentiated from polo shirts by this white collar & placket, and by the fabrication. Polo shirts are usually in a pique knit fabric (this has a tiny, raised circles texture up close and a crunchier handfeel).

For a rugby sweater, a wool version can be your winter counterpart to a cotton cut-and-sew. There are some great waffle, rib and jersey stitch sweater options out there. Always look for fully fashioned seams if possible. :)

Something to avoid in rugby styles is a hem with rib knit trim / or a hem that’s shaped to come in tighter fitting. Since rugby shirts are typically long, this fit just looks funky and cups the hips in an undesirable way. If you’ve got bigger hips and ass I recommend opting for a cropped version or very oversized fit though the body, anyway. Make sure you’re getting those length and hip measurements before purchase.

BASEBALL VIBES JERSEY, JACKET & RAGLAN TEE

I’m wearing weird thrifted baseball-ish fleece, second hand JOSEPH pinstripe pants, & Bimba Y Lola boots

I have no clue what this fleece snap-front jersey I have even is, or what the “NA” stands for lol but I love it regardless. I got it from a Depop seller (who I realized went to my high school—small world) who sells exclusively vintage. Either way I’m grouping it under “baseball top” because it has the general shape and signature snap-front of a baseball jersey—mine just has an added collar. Anecdotal note: while I was searching for cool baseball shirts, I began to notice I was encroaching on menswear hypebeast territory and got scared because grailed was predominantly popping up LOL.

The contrast trim—in this case “trim” meaning a ribbon of sorts—is what makes a lot of baseball uniforms so special. My fleece has a blue/white athletic ribbon but some of the fully fashioned sweaters have stripes knitted in (this is called “tubular”). My advice is go for the trim or tubular in your baseball jersey hunt because it’s cute and unique. Also, look for snap front when you can because it’s so satisfying to SNAP a top closed, but buttons are just fine too.

The classic antique-inspired baseball jerseys I’m into come in cotton or wool and since the theme of this post is sporting apparel not for sports, look for either natural fiber. Just don’t get a job as Assistant to the Traveling Secretary for the Yankees and convince them to play in 100% cotton jerseys which shrink à la George Costanza.

I’m wearing thrifted Dehen 1920 cheerleading baseball-style jacket w/ white shirt, Joseph velvet pants, (second hand borrowed from Ryan) Gucci tie & Frye cowboy boots

Baseball has too many good current clothing options…I love the raglan tees and may just have to get one for myself, in the vintage Russel Athletics variety. And there’s of course baseball jackets which happen to be the best kind of bomber. For either of these garments, my quick recommendations are: raglan sleeves in t-shirts create a snugger fit through the chest, and kind of all over. They’re also usually a 50/50 poly/cotton so confirm the content before purchase if a poly blend isn’t your thing. As for baseball jackets, the best possible version is one with wool felt through the body, real leather sleeves, and that striking striped rib trim at the cuffs, hem and collar. A quilted lining is the cherry on top for the perfect baseball jacket. There are however some good all-over wool options or, curveball, hahaa—a different look entirely—with a satin. I think sizing up makes for the cutest baseball jackets, too, as I wish my bomber were two sizes larger personally.

HOCKEY SWEATER OR JERSEY

I’m wearing thrifted cotton hockey sweater, thrifted Scottish wool kilt & second hand made in UK Doc Martens

I found this (seemingly vintage) cotton hockey sweater at the UES Goodwill on 1st Ave (they’ve got some good stuff); but there happen to be some similar/the same hockey sweaters available used on Poshmark. A design element I love about some hockey jerseys is the lace up detail at the front neck. I think it’s purely for aesthetic—and it is cute. If you type “lace up” as part of your online search terms, it will help funnel your hockey jersey search. Look for a fully fashioned placket for sweaters and clean finished topstitch on cut-and-sew jerseys; they will lay much flatter/neater than all those small intertwined neckline seams being overlocked.

ALL THE OTHER SPORTS CLOTHES.

Since it’s cold weather season, I’m skipping the basketball tanks and shorts for now, along with postponing coverage of my newfound obsession with football pants—but please don’t try and explain the game of football to me. However I can’t conclude without including some of my personal design and style inspirations which, like unto overalls, often come from my heritage. So here are some pics of my Grandpa LeRoy in his football uniform in 1951, and my great grandpa George in his baseball uniform circa 1920.

Grandpa LeRoy (1951) & Great-Grandpa George (1920)

Happy December & yes, I’m a Christmas tree nearly the day after Thanksgiving person (guilty)….xHannah