Give chinos a chance.
Give chinos a chance.
On vacation-ready cotton twill pants that don’t belong to yacht brats.
We’re now living in a world in which chinos, the magnificent, originally French/British military uniforms of 100% cotton twill fabric, are being worn predominantly by preps who lack inspiration and style. It’s a loss to the chino name and I’m making it my mission to open your perspective in order to view these historical pants as not only wearable but dynamic, and for the fashion-oriented. I’m writing to you from vacation in Muskoka Lakes, Ontario, Canada, where—you won’t be surprised to learn—boat bros are clad in their stolen identity chinos.
I’m grouping a few pants under the chino-umbrella but for this post, any cotton pant made with trouser details applies; think button waistband, pocket flaps or welt back pockets, and always a relaxed fit. Out of the context of your preconceived notions associated with the word “chino”, this sounds like a lovely pant, does it not?
Another reason to advocate for the ideal summer pant is that for me, vacation apparel can sometimes feel redundant or ridiculous, what with all the gauzy dresses and shorts. For dinners out, a lightweight trouser becomes practical and necessary. A reminder that I’m limited by what I packed with me, as per the origin of this newsletter. My circumstances have not changed for what wardrobe items I packed for three months without a home, but I am still making do!
Note to reader: chinos differ from khakis in that they are of a lighter-weight cotton twill. Khakis have also been sullied by the tasteless and I aim to remedy that too, come fall.
To break or not to break?
Let’s touch on a chinos / trouser length guide. Above is a diagram of various pant breaks from the now closed tailor, Nelson’s on the Lower East Side, that I always loved. A pant break is the fold/creasing of fabric that forms at the front of your pant leg when you are standing, just above your shoe.
(Here I’m wearing Margiela chinos & thrifted cotton cable knit sweater vest)
I’m wearing pant breaks across the spectrum here, but I’ve been privy to a deep break lately because I’m still so burnt out on the “sailor” pants that had a chokehold on women of my generation from 2014-2019 and on. Remember the high-waisted, tight through rise & hip wide leg pants with no break/super cropped length? I’m trying to forget them, too.
However if you are choosing a cuffed pant, (like my black Proenza Schoulers below) you definitely need at least a small break to none, so the cuff doesn’t flatten out over your shoe and look funny.
(Here I’m wearing Simon Miller rib dress over Proenza Schouler cuffed trouser)
Wynona Ryder at the Twelfth Night or What You Will Off-Broadway performance in 1989. Tina Kunakey from her Instagram.
Cotton Twill Fabric
While chinos are technically a cotton twill fabric, I’m offering you links to pants in chino-adjacent contents and weaves, too. My zip-off cargos below are a slubby lightweight 100% cotton canvas similar to the options of zip-off pants I’ve provided. Stan Ray pants range in fabrications from sateen to canvas, twill or ripstop. For a summer fabric weight, I recommend the sateen--that’s what I’m wearing in the last outfit photo.
(Here I’m wearing vintage cotton Woolrich convertible zip-off pants & Frankies Bikinis Tia top—I didn’t say all summer pants outfits couldn’t be ridiculous)…
(Here I’m wearing Stan Rays & aforementioned Proenza Schouler canvas shirtjac)
Low Rise & Low Crotch Pant Tip
If you’re a woman buying men’s pants, keep in mind the hip is cut narrower. I love Stan Rays but recommend buying 1-2 sizes larger than your usual if you are searching for that lower rise, relaxed crotch fit look.
Chinos of many colors…
Not all chinos are of the natural or ivory variety. I came across a pale yellow pair that was particularly compelling for the reclaiming chinos as cool agenda.
And you, of course, can’t go wrong with a black cotton pant, so have at it. The Etsy seller linked below has a crazy good inventory of vintage pants.
Tracee Ellis Ross via her Instagram.
Big Star Vintage made in the USA brown twill pant men's 32" $32.80
Vintage tab pleated black cotton pant sz 26", 27", 28", 30" $68
That’s it for this week—happy chinos-informed shopping. And a special thank you to my father-in-law for renting the family such a beautiful cottage in Muskoka. See you next week! xHannah