Quest for the equestrian
Highlights of horseback riding originated outfits for your back while not on horseback
Don’t hold your horses in the pursuit of equestrian wear
It isn’t every post that I feel compelled by a force so literal as a horse; but as we’re officially within bounds of the Chinese Zodiac year of the fire horse, how could I say no to examining apparel intertwined with such a majestic animal? Though, it being a horse year is just one excuse for my hankering to unpack a little of the rich clothing history that is equestrianism; so now I must confess I am a former horse girl. I never competed or anything, and my horseback riding lessons were shorter lived than I would have liked, but nonetheless the time I spent riding horses (well one horse, really, a sweet mare named Annie) made for some teenage memories that I hold most dear. For a young girl especially, the escape from modern life, being outdoors, while learning to communicate and connect with an intimidatingly magnificent creature standing beneath you felt healing beyond measure. And had I a bigger budget, or had it been another time, I’m certain my investment in equestrian outfitting would have been yet another wardrobe inclusion of interest for this ole clothes horse.
Living in NYC now makes horse woman dreams more remote than those possible in the field-filled suburbs of Portland, Oregon, and so I must resort to mere cosplay as an equestrian. However witnessing coverage of Amanda Seyfried’s Upstate New York farm life, where she cares for rescued horses and cats (my favorite farm animal friendship, of course) is making me envious; but that involves an existential “where-to-live” question for another time and place… No matter the sport or activity, clothing specific to horseback riding seems to connect with people far and wide and has extensive roots, globally. Illustrations of polo, for instance, date back to the 1500s in China. And while we’re on the subject of polo, Ralph Lauren built a fashion empire around a lifestyle brand named after this very sport, despite never having set foot on a polo field himself. To Ralph, the equestrian game of polo exuded something aspirational and universal in its aesthetic; and the persistent success and expansion of Ralph Lauren’s equestrian-inspired lines for decades now is more proof that horse-adjacent clothing seems to have endless appeal.
All this is to say you clearly don’t have to be an experienced horseback rider, or really a horse person at all, to be drawn in—like carriage to horse ;)—to the equestrian look. As I’ve illustrated, I don’t have an unbiased opinion on horses and horseback riding enough to theorize why, beyond horses being incredible, the clothes made for riding these animals hold unlimited attraction for so many people. Horses are amazing and we don’t deserve them (or trees) is my assessment. So I plan to simply act as your guide to the best of eQUESTrian for any ole day as a sucker without a horse. And funneling the vision further, given I’m a white lady from Oregon who was raised conservatively, much of the horse riding/equestrian specific media I consumed growing up was of the anglophile variety; this and the occasional visit to the infamous Pendleton Rodeo.
Original style & design implies the following & the breaking of traditional clothing rules
No one likes to follow rules and assign strict uniforms more than the British, plus there is certainly no culture more prude (I can’t even get into the ridiculousness of requiring women to continue riding side saddle well into the 20th century—Queen Elizabeth II rode a horse this antiquated way in 1986). But I’d argue that one of the few fun features about rigid clothing rules is that when/if you choose not to abide by the rules, you get to form your own kind of uniform by taking some of the original uniform’s bits and pieces, and losing or manipulating the others.
This is a concept I can and will continue to obsess over as a pillar of the best personal style. It is by incorporating certain “rules” while simultaneously and intentionally disregarding others that fashion can communicate important ideals, and by this principle designers have created some of their most original clothing. For example, take the historical gender bending “teddy girls” of the ‘50s, or the exaggerated silhouette of the “zoot suit” worn by African-American and Mexican-American men in the ‘30s; both were significant fashion indicators of rebellion and involved serious risk. Yet more evidence for why fashion should alwaaays be a part of The Conversation (no cop outs). I also love the specific to equestrian style collaboration between Burberry and Jodie Turner-Smith at the Met Gala last year: Jodie wore a look by the fashion house honoring Selika Lazevski, a La Belle Epoque era Black horsewoman (who, sadly and unsurprisingly, little is known about besides six striking photographs of her).
But you came here to animate your own closet with some horsiness so allow me to analyze how and why horse-related clothes contain magnetism through the CRACD method: a review of equestrian clothes’ integral fabrics, silhouettes, design details, and color palette.
In with the old, out with the new
With aspirational garb like equestrian apparel, I advise you try and think less literally; it’s about the nod nod wink wink, versus “I’m dressed in functional stretch jodhpurs.” If you do wanna get literal, though, I say go for the old school copy+paste version nearly every time. Modern sports uniforms are way too techy and synthetic, and who doesn’t want to ensconce themselves in wool houndstooth suiting atop a horse like Lady Mary Crawley? Or go BIG and get some vintage balloon jodhpurs which would be very much CRACD approved, and very gamine.
You can probably tell I had fun with these looks. For one, I adore mixin’ my yarn dye plaids. For two, I just got the above nod nod wink wink to horseback riding hat/baseball cap amalgamation, made in Italy from 100% wool felt & purchased at the Museum of Art and Design gift shop, no less. To avoid getting into too much of a good thing range, I opted for wool tights (these ones are sold out, sorry) instead of pants with riding boots for this fit. My navy shirt is a 100% wool crepe by Officine Generale. The elongated mini check blazer I’m wearing is a cotton/wool blend by Theory, paired with my second hand Givenchy wool plaid shorts.
Keeping fabrics of natural components like wool and cotton is the answer for suiting. I was secretly thrilled to sport a long blazer again (remember 2017 & the Balenciaga hourglass blazer knock-offs)? Again, not a professional horseback rider here but the longline blazer gives horse girl (non-derogatory), especially when the front is cutaway.
Would it be a horsey ‘fit without cleft toe shoes?
Equestrian blazers straight from the horse who reads CRACD’s mouth
On the topic of fabrics, you simply can’t get an equestrianesque fit off without including some velveteen (cotton velvet). I can hardly believe I’m wearing black with light wash jeans again, either, but this week was all about retrying old styling. Go for 100% cotton velvet fiber content in blazers and pants; or with a little bit of spandex/elastane.
I’m wearing a vintage GAP merino cardigan, Joseph velveteen robe blazer, Gucci Jordaan loafers, Acne jeans, Marc Jacobs ruffle neck shirt. One of the best “horse girl” outfit inclusions has to be good old fashioned jeans, true to the Americana version of equestrian wear. I will take any excuse to wear a button down with jeans so horseback riding inspiration is a go-to in my book.
similar cotton velvet blazer here sz 4 95% Cotton, 5% Elastane second hand Theory for $27.50?! also here: stand collar vintage Nili Lotan sz 4 for $280
similar white frill neck cotton shirt second hand Prada here sz XS for $103.50
Along for the riding boots
As a millennial having lived through riding boots hell in 2006———2015?? it is with a deeply tentative attitude that I am opening my heart again to riding boots at all, let alone ones worn over pants. You may recall the riding boot version most ubiquitous to the latter ‘00s-early 2010s as a pair designed/(but more likely knocked off from who knows where, originally) by Steven Madden, a boot that looked to be made from the shittiest leather imaginable which included a rounded toe, and exposed back zipper with orange tape. This Madden boot turned me off riding boots to the point of rage every time I had to trudge through Greek Row to get to Oregon State University’s campus, maniacally counting in my head the number of riding boots worn by sorority girls—over leggings of course—with the sightings reaching the dozens turning me more and more deranged. SO in 2026, with over a decade between me and college, I have my eye solely on the nicest possible riding boots from high quality leather, with NO zippers allowed, and only toe shapes ranging only from pointed, squared off, or almond at the roundest are permitted. And no friggin duh I’ll only be sporting this hypothetical future purchase (I’m stalking these TOTEME ones) of riding boots over jeans or trousers, never leggings—not then, not now.
I had too much fun with this whacky ‘fit: I’m wearing pull on leather Giampaolo Viozzi boots, Maiden Name wool twill trousers, men’s J. Crew dress shirt, vintage LEE jean jacket, thrifted silk apple printed necktie (bc horses love apples)! and Polo Ralph Lauren quilted field liner. I am surprisingly into the drape of a wool gabardine pant like mine hanging over the top of knee high boots, so my advice for a similar look is to opt for straighter legged trousers instead of very wide ones. I originally planned for this outfit to include another wool tweed blazer but felt it entered too much of a good thing territory in a thematic equestrian play on a suit way, so I instead added a more casual jacket in denim and voila.
I believe that quilted field liner (jackets) are a must for every wardrobe (I share the above number with my guy). I do however prefer the quality and fabric of antique military liners—sorry not sorry to Ralph; he expanded his brand(s) far too much, and the quality has been lost with the modern made stuff due to mass production—not to mention the ethical questions clothing made overseas, particularly in Southeast Asia, raises…Anyhow, with a standard piece that a military surplus store would offer, I recommend searching for vintage. (I happened to get my Polo liner years ago at ROSS with my mom, which, as far as a net new purchase goes, feels like a less questionable place to do so shopping ethics-wise, because stuff just sits there like a warehouse).
similar leather pull on kitten heeled boots here in beige on sale for $426
similar pleated pants second hand Giorgio Armani olive green sz S $48.75
similar vintage silk necktie apple print navy ground 1940s $75
Wild horse prints could drag me away
You may recall or notice from my general aesthetic that I don’t mess with conversational prints, or really prints of any kind. As I inspected two years ago in my post on yarn dye patterned fabrics: yarn dyed plaid, etc. is the only patterned category textile I generally wear. THAT IS until I came across this delightful equestrian-printed vintage MaxMara 55% cotton/45% wool shirt (fabric woven in Scotland; shirt made in Italy), purchased at local vintage store 1-of-a-find Vintage. Plus I accept the addition of the vintage printed apples silk necktie (above and below, center); however printed silk accessories are generally more acceptable. Something about the petite scale of the equestrian print lends it ambiguity, and the fact that it’s not overly detailed, i.e. there are no faces with corny expressions, perhaps makes the print feel grown-up; that and the horse print is against an elevated brushed twill fabric. I found another of this exact shirt on Mercari, linked below, that has been unsold for far too long—ignore the wrinkly photos from the seller—this shirt is obviously great.
An additional piece to add to your horse-infused wardrobe is a hooded wool cape; while a cape may sit more in the Medieval horseback riding era, it’s a very THAT item. I got my cloak, if you will, on Poshmark (the seller listed it as Pendleton but it looks unbranded to me), and it’s a hefty 100% wool felt fabric. The cape having no pockets is the annoying design feature, but I suppose pockets wouldn’t make it look as neat. It wouldn’t be a complete horseback outfit without including my Villeine Hickok Pants, either.
same wool/cotton horse printed vintage MaxMara shirt here sz S for $61.75
similar suede loafers here by Freda Salvador made in El Salvador for $378
same Villeine cotton ripstop pants here made in NYC for $520
similar vintage wool hooded cape here but longer w/ pockets for $250
As for colors, I’m an autumnal hue year-round lover, and there’s no better reason to sport shades of brown, burgundy and olive green than by using equestrianism as your compass. Notoriously a pop of red (or in my case this time, orange) never hurt anyone, either. Now that completes a helluva wearable color palette, horse or not.
I had a good time delving into horsewear this week, and it made me think just how much we could all use a little more horsing around in our lives nowadays. So, Happy Lunar New Year, and let’s keep on prancin’ until one day we can all run free from the reigns of fascism and all the other binds that dare to hold us back, akin to those beautiful wild horses.
xHannah
Absolutely LOVE this equestrian column, and the looks are perfectly fitting + fun. Loved it all. I hope someday you get to get back to horseback riding. You were made for it!
love the orange field liner from oregon city thrift