The long & short of it, AKA: long shorts week.
The long & short of it, AKA: long shorts week.
Woven shorts of mostly long, with a focus on the one & only, the invincible: jorts.
Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman” (1990), Kristen Stewart at Cannes in 2015, Meg Ryan in “When Harry Met Sally (1988), Halle Berry in Bel Air, 1994.
You don’t have to be paying much attention to the “fashion world” to notice there’s a vibe shift in jorts (that’s an abbreviation for jean shorts, for those who live under a rock). The jorts of choice are now long in length, and relaxed in fit. As someone who lived through Portland in the 2010s, I can say I’m relieved the high-waisted mini cut-offs have taken a backseat (at least for now because, as we know, trends are cyclical and if there’s one garment that just won’t die in fashion, it’s jorts).
While I’m excited by the change of long shorts taking the spotlight, clothing is deeply symbolic and emotional for me, and so the ex-Mormon in me is screaming out: “please don’t wear these long, modest shorts!” But alas I’ve found a way to make long shorts feel “me” by pairing them with something revealing or fitted on top to balance out the modesty factor lol. However, your associations with long shorts may be more open in which case, get after the styling inspiration of Meg Ryan in “When Harry Met Sally” (1988) and keep the whole fit buttoned-up cute.
I’ve grouped this week’s shorts into cut-off jorts, pleated shorts, hemmed jorts and Bermudas. I want to share the versatility these bad boys can offer.
Jorts Classic: Cut-Offs
My approach to jean cut-offs is DIY. I’m wearing Levi’s 550s that I cut off myself and then washed and dried immediately. You never want to wear freshly cut cut-offs without washing & drying first—it looks embarrassing without the necessary fraying. A tip for cutting off your jeans: use chalk/soap and measure a consistent measurement from the bottom leg opening of your jeans, drawing a line. Don’t just eyeball it, that never works.
Something else to look for with denim in general is to make sure it’s 100% cotton. I do not mess with stretch in my denim. Vintage Levi’s make it easy because they’re almost always of 100% cotton.
Also keep in mind the waist measurement on vintage denim is often not applicable. This is partly because the rise affects where the waist hits on your body. For the Levi’s 550, I recommend buying 3 sizes larger in the waist than what you usually wear in pants if you want them to sit lower, similar to how mine fit. Don’t worry about the inseam in this case because you’re cutting them off anyway.
Pleated Shorts
Above I’m wearing a cotton poplin asymmetric Marc Jacobs second hand short, but I also love a classic pleated linen trouser style. To me, it doesn’t make much sense to pleat a heavier fabric like a denim because it just adds weight. That’s where a lightweight cotton or linen is great for a pleated short…Pair back with a linen waistcoat or a summer knit—now that’s sophistication!
Hemmed Jorts
I purchased these Lee blue denim shorts vintage online and they’re a little higher waisted than I expected, but I think they still work nicely with a fitted and/or cropped top. They read kinda western so I leaned into that a bit with the styling.
For a hemmed short like these, and especially flat front (no pleats), I advise looking for a large leg opening. This creates a cute A-line effect, instead of looking tubular through the legs and giving you the dreaded fupa. If you’re buying online and can’t tell from the photos, you can always ask the seller for the measurement if they haven’t provided it already—any leg opening over 11” measured flat should be fine.
Trouser Shorts / Bermuda
Last but not least are Bermuda shorts. These second hand Marc Jacobs “The Bermuda” shorts are my go-to. Never have I received more compliments or questions about what shorts I was wearing. They’re a heavier weight black twill with trouser details (blind hem, hook & eye waist closure, welt back pockets). Unfortunately they’re not currently in stock for the most part (check links below for random sizes), but you can always be a freak like me and perpetually Google “Marc Jacobs Bermuda Short” to see if anyone has added used ones for sale on eBay, Poshmark, and the usual suspects. If this is not your bag, I have some similar versions linked below. I think another great thing about these shorts is the inseam length. It feels schoolboy in the best way—not too short, not too long. While I styled them lounge-ish this round, this Bermuda silhouette is incredibly versatile; see styled with chunky loafers and a blazer here.
Max Mara crease front TBD fabric cream color shorts sz M $56
Marc Jacobs Bermuda Short same as mine but in grey sz 27 $75
A note on fly length…While it’s all hunky dory to shop for vintage denim and shorts, a word to the wise: search for classic fly lengths (medium to long only) and not short fly length—you’ll know a short fly when you see it. Short flys are so era-specific and hard to restyle in a modern way and, in my opinion, belong in the past. It’s one thing wearing low-slung waistlines again—but the combination of low-slung and fitted crotch permitting only a 3” zip fly is a style I don’t think I can ever get behind again…Unless a copy/paste styling of 2007 Paris Hilton is your jam *shrug emoji* avoid these at all costs…
Apologies to the knit, elastic waist, and cargo shorts I may have offended by leaving out—I still love you, but there was just too much to cover with woven long shorts.
A refresher on CRACD’s origins & goals
For anyone new to CRACD, I’m living out of a suitcase or two while my stuff is in storage in NYC (crazy downstairs neighbor prompted a quick move). Right now I’m in Oregon for a while but I just need to re-disclaim: I’m working with what I brought and I really miss my the rest of my clothes, shoes, bags, accessories : (. My advice for those whose circumstances aren’t forcing them to dress marginally is: enjoy it! Go crazy! Wear a weird outfit just to see how it feels!
And secondly, I wanted to start this newsletter to share some of what I’ve learned about clothes after earning my degree in Apparel Design and working nine years in the industry. Not only do I want you to learn a thing or two about how to shop smarter, but I hope that by sharing some of what goes into making good clothes, you will better understand why clothes cost what they cost. I’m opposed to mass production, overseas labor wherever possible, and mass consumption—so CRACD is really a celebration of well-made clothing, both old and new. I’m also trying to be better at avoiding massive discounts, as they can really hurt small designer labels (for more on this, you’ve gotta read Blackbird Spyplane’s piece on SSENSE’s practices)! I hope I can nudge you even a little to want to shop used and small designer more because—of course in my opinion—it really is worth it! Thanks for getting CRACD this week. xo Hannah