[Why] does[n't] anybody wear silk blouses anymore??

On silk, the fiber: how it's fabricated, and how the resulting silk fabric makes for your dreamiest woven tops.

Nov 03, 2023

Above from left: Gillian Anderson in The Fall (2013), Maggie Cheung in Mood for Love (2000 set in 1962), Keira Knightley in Atonement (2007 set in 1935), Tessa Thompson in Passing (2021 set in 1920s), Grace Kelly in Rear Window (1954)

On woven tops—of silk, specifically.

I don’t mean to confuse you, the reader, in any way as far as what I recommend for how you clothe yourself waist-up. Yes, I enjoy cozy knitwear and sweatshirts for my tops of choice, regularly—but I also consider myself an advocate for the preservation of woven tops as part of regular dressing. After all, we have also reviewed corsets and button-downs already. And I can’t disregard a certain lack of woven blouses/tops in my day-to-day surroundings. For instance I’m currently writing from a Brooklyn coffee shop which has confirmed my suspicions of woven blouses disappearing: every person here is clad exclusively in T-shirts, sweatshirts and sweaters.

A constant repeat: knit versus woven.

For those just joining us or who may not already know, the difference between woven and knit fabrics is in how the fabrics are constructed. Woven fabrics are created using threads that run along warps (longitudinal) and wefts (latitudinal). Knitting involves interloping or interlacing a single yarn. Knit fabrics do exist under the cut-and-sew category of garments (think T-shirts and sweatshirts); while fully-fashioned sweaters are built all-in-one—as in the sweater is created simultaneously with the material—you knit the garment into existence, never cutting out anything from a fabric. But the simplest takeaway as the wearer, is that knit garments are very comfy/cozy and malleable, and woven garments are more structured/rigid/less comfy.

As a designer and admirer of historical clothing, I do love when people go the extra mile and sacrifice a little comfort by wearing woven tops from time to time because, as I’ve mentioned ad nauseam, it’s rare these days. I chose specifically to focus on silk this week because the creation & fabrication of silk is so time-consuming, unique, delicate, and frankly astounding that I can’t believe humanity discovered the process could make fabric in the first place.

(Another) constant repeat: fiber versus fabric.

Another general lesson to aid in your clothing-knowledge-and-or-shopping-quest is the difference between a fiber and a fabric (weave). A fiber is what composes a fabric. You can have a 100% silk fiber, for instance, made into all types of woven (or knitted yarns) fabrications. In the case of silk and the tops I’m wearing this week: silk is of course the fiber, and taffeta, habotai, and crêpe de chine, are the weaves (final fabrics). If you think of it like pasta, the fiber is the flour, eggs, salt and water, and the weave/fabric is the linguini, farfalle, penne, and rigatoni. It’s very important to know both when looking at clothing, because some brands will be deceivingly sneaky, describing a garment as just a “satin top” or “silky top” when in reality, yes it’s a satin weave, but the fabric is actually composed of 100% polyester fiber.

Silk!

Here’s a video of silk fiber production for those curious. Silk is a natural fiber; natural meaning it is obtained from a mineral, animal or vegetable source—in this case an animal source. I wear almost exclusively natural fibers, especially in woven garments (natural fibers get tricky or impossible when it comes to athletic or swimwear, but that’s a conversation for another time). In summary, silk is made from the cocoons spun by the larvae of the silk moth/worm.

Beginning with the cultivation of silk worms and ending with the extraction of threads from the cocoon, the resulting silk filaments are too thin on their own. The silk filaments need to then be hand-reeled onto a wooden spool. The reeling process alone can take 40 hours or more for just half a kilogram. All this and the silk threads still haven’t even been woven into a fabric! Such a laborious and intensive operation as silk fiber-generating obviously means that silk is—and should be—very expensive.

Some silk properties…

It’s no wonder why everyone wanted to steal the secrets to Ancient silk production from China; it’s a miraculous fiber. Silk is both naturally hypoallergenic and antimicrobial. She’s (will you allow me to personify my dear friend, Silk)? also said to be the strongest fiber in the world which is a great achievement, considering silk is also the thinnest fiber. Silk has luster, takes to dye well and has a smooth texture. If you must know silk’s cons, she requires high upkeep (dry cleaning) and is sensitive to sun (prone to discoloration) and insects. Poor silk! Keep her out of the sun and away from bugs, goddamnit.

Above: I’m wearing my Villeine Harriett Top in pearl & thrifted jeans. I used the virago sleeve removable ribbon on the Harriett Top in my hair (and Margiela Tabi mary janes, safely unstolen, Thank The Lord)!

Silk fabrics/weaves.

My personal favorite silk fabrications/weaves are taffeta and faille, but there’s a time and place for every silk weave of course. My Villeine Harriett Top is made from vintage 100% silk taffeta. Taffetas are tightly woven and smooth to the touch with a slight sheen. You may recognize silk taffeta fabric in old paintings

Above: Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, Marie Antoinette with a Rose (1783). Collection of the Palace of Versailles, Versailles

where the garments look almost papery and lustrous. If you’re looking for something structured, almost ethereally lantern-like, search for silk taffeta…The Harriett Top I could, naturally, go on and on about, but a design feature that’s a particular point of pride for me is its double layer self-fabric—as in the entire bodice interior is also 100% silk with all clean finishes (no cost-cutting, non-natural irritating poly-lining here ;)

Above: Harriett Top interior view of clean finished double layer self silk taffeta fabric. Image by Anna Greer.

Above: I’m wearing Villeine Harriett Top in ink, this time with the virago sleeve ribbons on, & thrifted bloomers + made in Portland, OR handbag Kozha Numbers w/ second hand Prada pumps & white nylon knee-highs.

The silk blouses I’m wearing, continued…

The other silk tops I’m sporting this week are a thrifted PRADA silk habotai top my friend Char found for me at My Sister’s Closet in Scottsdale, AZ of all places. Silk habotai is very delicate and sheer so, sadly, there is some “seam grin” happening in some high-pressure areas. Seam grin occurs when the seam line spreads open, exposing the stitches so they appear similar to the teeth in a grin. I kind of just go with it because it just shows it’s been worn with love many times. But if I may be so bold as to dare criticize Madame Prada: the delicate fabric choice for a fitted design such as this is a difficult combination—with any repeated movement/wear, you’re bound to get seam grin. Silk chiffon is similar to habotai but it’s crinklier and a little less structured, and silk georgette is the most similar to habotai, only with more structure/rigidity.

Above: Seam grin example via online clothing study; seam grin occurring on my PRADA top; SJP as Carrie Bradshaw in season 3 of Sex & the City (2000). I always loved this insane funky pink silk blouse but you do have to wonder if she was getting some seam grin from such a delicate, sheer AND fitted woven top.

Lastly I’m wearing a JOSEPH 100% silk crêpe de chine (CDC) blouse. CDC fabrics are known for their delightful crunch and, like the name suggests, crepey texture. They’re lightweight, drapey with especially great wrinkle resistance. CDC is most typically used in gowns, with brands like the The Row, Philo’s Celine and Dries van Noten coming to mind as some who’ve utilized the fabric in inventive ways.

Above: I’m wearing second hand PRADA silk habotai collared blouse w/ vintage Lord & Taylor wool pleated skirt (and, ok, I obviously have to mention my new over-the-knee Marni boots)!!

Above: I’m wearing JOSEPH silk CDC w/ silk satin collar blouse & second hand Marc Jacobs wool vest, second hand PRADA wool trouser & my fave second hand PRADA pumps.

Also keep your eyes and mind open to silk satin & double satin blouses for their special luster and drape! And not to be forgotten is silk organza! Basically you just can’t go wrong with a silk blouse.

Above: Elle Fanning in a silk CDC-looking blouse via her Instagram

As always I hope I have been of assistance in your clothing knowledge and appreciation. Long live our beloved Silk and crazy little silkworms! xHannah