Seamingly all about jeans.
A go-to list of what makes the best denim (including what seams), and answering the question: what even is denim?
The Sandlot, (1993 set in 1962)—denim forever! (and did you spot the amazing chinos far left)?, Levi’s 501s via “Gear Patrol”, 2022.
It’s our first jeans endeavor and I only brought one pair for this period of life from a suitcase (we’re at 3 months sans home now)...so naturally, I had to thrift three additional pairs for the purposes of this post, and because the Goodwill in Milwaukie, Oregon is a treasure. Given denim is such a dynamic and enduring force, I feel like I’ll need to do recurring posts covering jeans updates.
The history of blue jeans in particular is so tied to American clothing history. Since the mid-19th century, denim has been used in the United States and while Levi Strauss patented the first ever riveted (the copper reinforced “studs” on your typical jeans) to reinforce weak points in the garment, this rivet method and the first ever jeans were actually the invention of tailor and Russian immigrant to Nevada, Jacob Davis, in 1873. Strauss added the back left pocket in 1901 on the Levi’s 501 and the standard 5-pocket jean was born.
A general definition of denim fabric is: a twill weave where the weft (horizontal) thread passes under two or more warp (longitudinal) threads, (while the textile is being created on the loom). This thread construction creates the sturdy, recognizable diagonal ribbing effect. While jeans come in a rainbow of colors today, what defined the original blue jean was dying the warp thread indigo and leaving the weft thread white.
(Illustration of a 3/1 twill weave: 3 indigo warp threads to 1 white weft thread) via Wikipedia)
1. Acne Studios lightweight distressed jeans w/ suiting inspired look; 2. vintage Wranglers w/ boxers underneath & my mom’s 1977 made in Japan Nike Cortez (can you believe)?! 3. Thrifted Wranglers w/ Needles paisley men’s button-down; 4. Vintage brown Dickie’s w/ my Villeine George Harness Pockets worn as a belt w/ one pocket only
Guide for finding your best jeans ever according to CRACD:
Button fly—while I own my fair share of zip fly jeans (not invented until the 1960s by the way), I always prefer a button fly. It lays flatter and wears better and longer.
Flat felled seam rise & inseam (depending)--if you see jeans without a flat felled seam on the rise--run! A flat felled seam is an extra secure and beautiful clean finished seam, typical for denim. Many jeans have flat felled seams along the inseam, too, which I prefer on more fitted styles. When the inseam is not flat felled (often for design details or fit reasons), make sure the seam allowances are pressed open, not overlocked together. When the seam allowances (the edge of the fabric along a seam) are sewn together, it can be really irritating to the skin because it stands straight up; it’s a cheaper method because it’s one less order of operations.
100% cotton denim fabric—I’ve mentioned this before about Levi’s 550s, but I really don’t mess with anything stretch denim. Cotton denim breaks in naturally so nicely; and I’m not looking for my jeans to feel like leggings. If the fabric composition contains 2% poly or something like that, that doesn’t really matter; it’s more when elastane or spandex are included where I get concerned.
Buy men’s jeans (mostly): Women shopping for men’s jeans—also touched on this about the Levi’s 550s I bought and chopped—go 2-3 sizes bigger in the waist, depending on the fit you’re looking for.
Fabric weight and rinse matters--it may not always be clearly indicated in ounces, especially if you’re shopping vintage online, but the weight of the fabric will definitely affect the feel and wear. If you’re wanting a heavier weight twill, save it for the fall/winter. There are also manifold processes that denim brands go through in order to get different pigments, distressing, washes, etc. The more uniquely distressed and washed a pair of jeans is, the more softened they will be. Of course these processes (like dying, distressing, washing multiple times) are not great for the environment so that’s something to be aware of in trying to limit consumption of new denim.
Where are they made? Obviously made in U.S.A. is great and a lot of vintage jeans were (I don’t even bother with new Levi’s made overseas), but lots of vintage jeans were made in Mexico which, from my understanding, has great manufacturing capabilities for flat felled seams in particular. Made in Japan is also great for denim but usually more designer/expensive. More generally, made locally no matter the brand is always the goal.
Hopefully this list can be helpful when you’re digging through those fateful jeans racks at Goodwill, Stella Dallas, or the like, but I’ve also linked some good online options below. I’m grouping the two pairs of blue jeans I’m wearing and the black jeans under “The Classic Jean”; one being a straighter leg Acne Studios pair and the two other, vintage men’s Wranglers. You can always type “vintage Wranglers” for example into eBay, Poshmark, etc. if you’re searching for a classic (and often inexpensive) pair of jeans.
Of course the length of the rise and the waist measurement will be what determines the fit most. For instance, Geena Davis & Susan Sarandon in Thelma & Louise, (1991) above, opted for a more snug waist measurement as their jeans sit higher, with a medium rise (the jeans sit snugly in the crotch area). And Rihanna’s 2021 “grocery run” jeans (another burned into my memory outfit) look as though they have a longer rise (dropped crotch) and medium-fitted waist. Always consider both these measurements when shopping for jeans.
Lastly for fun, enjoy some denim of many colors links. I loved Blackbird Spyplane’s colored denim report and included one of their purple denim made in USA recommendations, too. I’m sporting men’s vintage Dickie’s of the perfect brown hue—back when Dickie’s did made in Mexico 100% cotton denim, sigh…
Vintage Landlubber kelly green jeans w/ sailboat embroidery sz 28” $75
Vintage Lees tapered red jeans these look Thelma & Louise-esque sz 27” $33
The denim world is so vast—we’ll definitely revisit, but I’m leaving it here for today. May you feel some amount of jean-shopping stress alleviated henceforth. xHannah
Learnt the merit of button fly from you and I’m never going back. The people need this list 💯. Humbly request denim silhouette timeline breakdown on your denim revisit 🙌
Ahh jeans. When I bought my first pair of Levi 501’s as a teenager I knew I was cool. I still still feel that today when I put them on (bit different size now but still, like denim itself, enduringly cool!)